 Ever wonder about all the fishing lines that are available? Which one is the best? What's the difference in the different types? What line should I use? If you are like me you don't have a lot to spend trying out different lines. So here's some (once again) general information that may help.
First off let's start with the most popular and probably most versatile type of line - monofilament. This line is precisely what it says it is, a single strand or one filament. It is made from a gel that solidifies as it "shoots" through a series of smaller and smaller openings as the gel cools. Monofilament lines have been around for approximately fifty years or more. In the last ten years there have been some significant improvements made to it. You can find mono lines that are labelled thin or ultra thin. This usually means the diameter of that line is small for the tensile strength. In other words if a line is a 10 pound test line and is ultra thin, it has a smaller diameter than a regular 10 pound test line. You may also find a small decimal number next to pound test number indicating the diameter of the line. Thinner lines cast further, are less visible to the fish and you can put more on your reel. Also many lures work better or get a better action with a thinner line. Another improvement is a reduction in line stretch in many mono's. Lower line stretch gives the line a greater sensitivity which translates into you being more aware of what is happening at the lure end of the line. You can detect lighter bites from the fish and "find" the bottom more easily when jigging on or near the bottom for walleye. Another type of line that has come onto the market in recent years is fluorocarbon. This substance is in the same family as Teflon. On the negative side fluorocarbon does not have as good a knot strength as mono. The knot must be very wet when tying in order not to have the knot damage the line. It is stiffer than mono and may not seat on the reel as well. It does not recover as well from memory which means that after being on the reel and not being used for a while it will cast of the reel in curls for a while. Fluorocarbon is considerably more expensive. On the plus side this line is known for its smaller diameters per pound test and its almost invisible qualities in clear water on bright days. It also sinks better than mono and will not absorb water the same. I personally think this line should be used by most of us only in special situations. I may give it try on my spinning outfit that I use to jig for walleye because of its low-vis qualities and because of its low stretch sensitivity features. It may also be a good leader material for flyfishing nymphs and wet flies.
The final group of lines we will consider are the "superlines" or braided lines. These lines are the work horses of the fishing lines. However they too have some drawbacks. Cost is certainly a factor with these lines. The time factor in manufacturing these lines is reflected in the cost. Braided lines can be hard on the guides of your fishing poles and on reel parts that it comes into constant contact with. Some braids have overcome this problem by adding slick surfaces to the line. This can mean trouble with knots. You must follow the manufacturers instructions very carefully concerning knot tying and set up. Most braids boast almost zero stretch which can mean better hook sets and greater sensitivety. It also means you need to be gentle with hook sets and dislodging snags. No hard vigorous jerking on the pole to free your line or you may end up with your two piece rod becoming a three piece. Without the forgiveness of line stretch the pole absorbs more shock and takes more punishment. Positively speaking these lines are positively the strongest for the thinnest diameters.
Remember that thinner lines allow many lures to work better and are less wind resistant when casting. Braided lines have not been proven to be any more abrasion resistant than other lines but again while in good condition are extremely strong. They excel when working in heavy cover or thick weeds. Do not attempt to break the higher pound test braided lines with your bare hand. They will cut you extremely easily.
All of these lines have their place and their strengths and weaknesses. You need to decide what you want to do and which line will allow you to accomplish this the best. My advice is that unless you have some, more or less advanced experience with fishing lines then stick with a good quality monofilament line. They have proven themselves over the years and are usually your best bet for the bucks you will spend. Spend a little more for monofilament lines. Usually the cheaper the line the poorer the quality. In fact some "bargain" price mono's that offer hundreds or even thousands of yards for a low price are actually reject lines from brand name manufacturers.
Good luck and keep the tip up!
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Dave Tigani
